Kōshū

Aromatic steam carries the refreshing scent of sansho pepper from the kitchen at Kōshū, a Chinese restaurant set along a street near the residential area of Takaido-Higashi. A natural starting point is the mapo tofu, loaded with coarse-ground minced meat. Along with a moderately spiced classic rendition, the menu features Chen mapo tofu crafted with the tongue-tingling punch of Sichuan peppercorns, balancing meatiness and heat in a way that pairs effortlessly with steamed rice.

At lunch, the large Japanese-style fried chicken rivals mapo tofu in popularity. Generous, fist-sized pieces are served with fragrant sansho salt, releasing hot juices at the first bite while the pepper cuts neatly through the richness. For diners torn between noodles and rice, a half-and-half set combining sesame-rich dandan noodles with fluffy, dry-fried fried rice provides a satisfying solution.

Evening service expands into authentic Chinese multicourse arrangements, seasonal stir-fries, and small plates. Gathering over tender pork fillet sweet-and-sour pork, succulent chili shrimp, and pan-fried gyoza with Shaoxing wine or draft beer makes for an unpretentious feast. Handcrafted touches extend right through dessert, whether in the silky smoothness of heavy-cream almond tofu or freshly fried sesame balls.

The compact dining room is arranged primarily around four-seat tables, accommodating solo meals and small gatherings alike in a relaxed setting. Midday seats fill quickly, so an unhurried arrival is recommended.